Merry Christmas to all of our friends and family! It’s Christmas morning, and I’m writing this from our beach hut on Palolem Beach in Goa, India. Nicola is in the hammock, and I’m sitting on our small porch. Our beach hut is simple—four walls of plywood covered in thatched palms with a burlap roof—but it has an attached bathroom and even hot water, which counts as a luxury here.
During the off-season, these huts rent for about 600 rupees a night, but at Christmas and New Year’s they jump to 3000. We were lucky to find one online at all, though it was only available from December 23–27. Over the past couple of days, we’ve been searching for another place to extend our stay until January 2. Most huts have only cold water, but we found one for 1500 rupees per night during this peak season. As I sit here, the waves of the Arabian Sea crash in the background—a peaceful reminder that we didn’t come for luxury. We came for sunshine, sand, and serenity.
Goa: The Perfect Escape
Goa is famous for its beaches, and we wanted one that wasn’t too wild or too isolated—something in between. Palolem fits perfectly. It feels like a hidden secret of the British; nearly everyone here seems to be from the UK, with a few Russians scattered in. I suppose Goa is to the British what Mexico or Cuba are to Canadians.
We came to Goa to rest. It might sound strange to say we’re tired—after all, we’ve been traveling the world—but constant travel takes a toll. Living out of backpacks, moving every few days, finding transportation, meals, and accommodation... it’s exhilarating but exhausting. Our minds are completely free from work stress, and Nicola’s shoulder and neck pain has vanished, but now it’s time to recharge physically. The rhythm of the waves, the warmth of the sun, and long stretches of reading are exactly what we need.
Missing Home at Christmas
For Nicola, this part comes naturally. She often travels during Christmas, taking a well-earned break from work and indulging her love of adventure. For me, it’s harder. I usually spend Christmas with my family in Ontario and get some quality Emily time. I miss them deeply, and I know they miss me too. I’ve known this Christmas away from home was coming for five years as we planned this trip, but knowing it doesn’t make it easier.
Thankfully, FaceTime has been a gift. In fact, I probably talk to my family more this year than usual. Today, as I sit here with the sound of the sea and Nicola swaying in the hammock, I’m thinking of everyone back home and wishing them a very Merry Christmas.
The Tiger Hunt in Rajasthan
Before reaching Goa, we had our own Christmas adventure of a different kind—a tiger hunt in Ranthambore National Park, Rajasthan. We spent two nights there and booked four safaris, each lasting about three hours. We knew there were no guarantees of seeing a tiger, but everything we’d read suggested multiple safaris increased your odds. The park has nine zones, and your assigned zone changes each trip—just as unpredictable as where the tigers might be.
Our first safari took us through Zones 2 and 4. We saw monkeys, deer, peacocks, wild boar, crocodiles, and owls—but no tigers. Guides rely on tracks and animal alarm calls to locate them, and though we saw prints and heard alerts, the jungle remained quiet. We learned that a tiger had been spotted in Zone 5 that morning, so we were hopeful when we were assigned to Zone 5 for our next safari. Still, no luck.
By the third safari, I tried to prepare myself for disappointment. I told myself it was all about luck, but deep down I knew I’d be crushed if we didn’t see even one tiger. As we headed back toward the gate, our guide suddenly perked up after speaking to a park ranger in Hindi. We sped off toward a crowd of vehicles. And there it was—a magnificent male tiger, standing in plain sight about forty feet away. I snapped photos furiously until he disappeared into the jungle. The entire moment lasted less than a minute, but it was unforgettable.
We celebrated that night with beers and stories shared with fellow travelers—Americans living in Turkmenistan and Canadians from our safari group. They hadn’t been as lucky, so we promised to send them our photos. (Sarah and Jonah, if you’re reading this, email me at jeff.nwt at gmail.com!)
Our fourth and final safari brought no more tiger sightings, but we didn’t mind. Seeing even one was an incredible stroke of luck. Some travelers we met had done a dozen safaris without success. Others saw three tigers in one day. That’s nature for you.
Roads, Royals, and Rajasthani Charm
After our final safari, we began the long drive to Jodhpur. We’d been told it was a seven or eight-hour journey—it took eleven. Driving in India is harrowing enough in daylight; after dark, it’s downright terrifying. High beams flash constantly, horns blare, and trucks, cows, and people all share the same road. We arrived late to find our hotel overbooked, but our driver arranged another one for us—a beautiful 18th-century aristocratic home owned by the same family for 200 years. We barely made it to bed before collapsing from exhaustion.
The next morning, we visited the Amber Fort, a massive mountaintop fortress once home to the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Since the monarchy was abolished in 1971, it’s been preserved as a museum. Its scale and architecture were breathtaking. At a nearby temple, Nicola once again became a local celebrity, surrounded by schoolchildren eager to take her photo—a scene that never fails to make me laugh.
Jewels and Joy in Jaipur
From Jodhpur, we drove to Jaipur, the Pink City, where the old buildings are painted in shades of coral and rose. I surprised Nicola by booking the Peacock Suite she had admired earlier—complete with a peacock bed, chairs, and decor. Our driver, who seemed to know everyone in Jaipur, guided us through the city with ease.
We explored the City Palace, admired painted elephants, and of course, were steered toward a few “recommended” shops. (Drivers earn small commissions for bringing tourists in.) Nicola had a ring made using a tanzanite she bought in Tanzania and two small diamonds from a ring her mother gave her years ago. The jeweler reused her gold, and she ended up with a custom 24-hour masterpiece for only $100. I had a suit and shirt made for Emily’s graduation. Between that and Nicola’s new shirts, we both left Jaipur feeling stylish.
We also tried the famous Lassiwala on MI Road—just make sure you go to the real one, not one of the three copycats next door. Their lassi was thick, sweet, and served in clay cups. Worth the hype!
Delhi Dash and On to the Coast
Our final stop before Goa was Delhi. After yet another long drive, we did almost nothing our first day—just ordered room service and watched TV. The next afternoon, we ventured out to Connaught Place, had a vegetarian McDonald’s meal (no beef in India!), and explored a few modern shops. Nicola finally got a haircut, which looks great, even if she thinks it’s too short.
On Sunday, we hired a driver for some last-minute sightseeing: the Lotus Temple, India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, the Sikh Temple, and Qutub Minar. It was crowded but worth it. Our driver was fantastic—funny, helpful, and full of energy. He even helped us package and ship a parcel home, sprinting around to photocopy passports and find materials while we waited. I don’t think we could have managed without him.
Christmas on the Arabian Sea
And now here we are, back at the beach. The sea sparkles, the air is warm, and our only plans for today are a Christmas dinner and maybe a swim. Internet is spotty here, so I’m posting this while we’re at a café with Wi-Fi. Pictures will follow later if the connection allows. For now, this feels like the perfect place to pause.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of our friends and family, wherever you are. May your holidays be filled with laughter, love, and light.
