The full New Zealand North Island Road Trip! We hiked the 19.4 km Tongariro Alpine Crossing (volcanoes, emerald lakes), explored Rotorua’s geothermal wonders, dug a hot tub at Hot Water Beach, visited the Art Deco city of Napier, and drove to Cape Reinga for sandboarding and Kauri Giants.
Part 1: Wellington & The Central Volcanic Plateau
The comfortable ferry ride from Picton gave us scenic views of the smaller sounds before reaching Wellington, the capital. The city felt lively and urban. We visited the incredible Te Papa Museum (including the squid exhibit) and later took the train back into the city to gather ideas for our upcoming Fiji leg.
We drove north to Tongariro National Park for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, often called New Zealand’s best one-day hike. The 19.4 km trek wove between two volcanoes, through craters and steaming vents. The colours—deep blues, emerald greens—were otherworldly, making the hike feel like walking through another planet.
From Tongariro, we headed to Lake Taupo for rest, watching the sunset and relaxing. I couldn't resist jumping into some natural hot pools along our running route—a reminder of the constantly alive volcanic landscape. Later in our journey, we passed back through Taupō for some second-hand treasures.
In Rotorua, we booked two key experiences. First was Whakarewarewa, the Living Māori Village, where meals are cooked in steam boxes powered by geothermal vents. We watched a traditional Māori performance and Nicola even joined the stage to learn some moves. The next day, we explored Waimangu Volcanic Valley, formed from an 1886 eruption, hiking past hot streams, bubbling mud pools, and steaming lakes.
Part 2: Coromandel, Napier & Friends
From Rotorua, we drove toward the Coromandel Peninsula. We climbed Mount Manganui in Tauranga for panoramic views, then drove the eastern side of the Coromandel, making two major stops. At Hot Water Beach, we rented a spade and dug our own geothermal hot tub in the sand. At Cathedral Cove, we hiked 40 minutes to reach the iconic archway carved through the cliffs. We overnighted in Thames before heading north.
Before heading to the far north, we looped through the lower North Island, stopping in Hamilton (beautiful botanical gardens), then drove on to Palmerston North to see Christa, a friend from Nic’s Africa travels. We finished in Napier, Hawke’s Bay, a city proudly rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake in cohesive Art Deco style.
Part 3: Far North, House-Sitting & Farewell
Zooming past Auckland, we arrived at Mangawhai Heads for an eight-day house-sitting gig, caring for three cats. The home had an entire wall that slid open to the deck, giving us a beautiful open-air experience. We sank into the quiet, enjoying home-cooked meals and exploring the hilly Waipū Coastal Track.
We drove north to Paihia and scored a half-price boat trip around the Bay of Islands. The dolphins were the main show, leaping with fish in their mouths. Our skipper threaded the gap through the Hole in the Rock—a memorable moment.
Our Far North adventure took us near Kaitaia, where we started a tour to Cape Reinga. We visited Kauri Kingdom to see ancient kauri logs (some 50,000–150,000 years old) and walked the open-air museum at Gumdiggers Park. At Cape Reinga, we walked to the lighthouse and the point where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet, watching the line of whirlpools where they collide. The return leg followed Ninety Mile Beach (actually 94 km), where we detoured to high dunes for sandboarding. I acquired a few souvenir raspberries after a graceless cartwheel into a stream!
Southbound, we stopped at the living kauri forests to wander among giants like Tane Mahuta, the largest (roughly 1,500–2,000 years old). That night, we went on a red-light kiwi walk in Trounson and got lucky—seeing one kiwi dash beneath the path, then another blur into the bush.
Our final days included practical errands in Auckland (car, Fiji gear) and a cultural night out to see the Royal New Zealand Ballet’s Coppélia. We staged within an hour of the airport, ready for the next leg of our journey. The North Island journey reminded us that the best days often mixed the ordinary and the epic: a hot pool after a run, a ballet after a grocery run, and a lighthouse after a packed lunch.
