As our time in New Zealand draws closer to its end, we find ourselves slowing down a bit—perhaps savoring each moment just a little more before heading home.
Crossing from South to North
After leaving Ruby Bay, we made our way to Picton, marking our final days on the South Island. We didn’t spend much time there—arriving just before dark and catching the ferry the next morning—but it left a good impression. The ferry ride itself was comfortable and scenic, especially the first hour as we glided through the smaller sounds reminiscent of Milford Sound before heading into open waters. A few dolphins were said to be alongside us, though they managed to stay out of sight.
By early afternoon we arrived in Wellington, the capital of New Zealand. The city felt lively and urban, with parking prices to match. Before heading to our accommodation outside the city, we visited the incredible Te Papa Museum—a must-see for anyone coming to Wellington. The exhibits ranged from geology and art to cultural displays, including a simulation of a 6.0 earthquake and even the largest squid ever caught. After several hours exploring, we drove to Plimmerton, a quaint seaside town about twenty minutes north, and enjoyed some excellent fish and chips for dinner.
Wellington and Beyond
The next morning, we ran along the Plimmerton beach, looping back and forth to hit our usual 10 km. Later, we took the train into Wellington—an easier and cheaper option than parking in the city—and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon. We stopped by a travel agency to gather ideas for our upcoming Fiji leg and met Stephanie, who was full of great tips. That evening, we treated ourselves to a hearty steak dinner at an Irish pub, with enough leftovers for breakfast the next day.
After another wander around Wellington, we returned by train to Plimmerton for the night, ready to continue our road trip north the following morning.
Hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Our next destination was National Park Village, nestled at the base of Tongariro National Park. This area is postcard-perfect and home to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—often called New Zealand’s best one-day hike. We took an early bus to the trailhead and began the 19.4 km trek between two volcanoes, weaving through craters and steaming vents. The colors were otherworldly: deep blues, emerald greens, and milky greys, each created by different minerals rising from the earth. We ate our packed lunch overlooking a crater lake, the mist lifting just enough to reveal a breathtaking view. The timing felt perfect all day, with the clouds parting whenever we needed them to.
By the time we reached the end, we were tired but exhilarated. It’s easy to see why this hike has such a reputation—it’s like walking through another planet.
Relaxing in Lake Taupo
From Tongariro, we headed to Lake Taupo for some well-deserved rest. The weather was rainy, which gave us the perfect excuse to slow down. We watched the sunset over the lake and spent the next day doing light, easy things—a movie (just us in the theatre!) and some lakeside exploring. I even hit golf balls into the lake at a driving range, aiming for a floating green while the owner snorkeled for lost balls. The next morning, during our run, we stopped at some natural hot pools along the route. I couldn’t resist jumping in, skivvies and all—it was amazing how warm the geothermal water was. The volcanic landscape continues to fascinate me; it feels like the earth here is constantly alive.
Volcanic Wonders in Rotorua
From Taupo, it was a short drive to Rotorua, where we’d booked a couple of experiences through the discount site BookMe. The first was at Whakarewarewa, the Living Māori Village, home to 28 families living atop geothermal vents. Meals are cooked in steam boxes underground or directly in boiling pools—a natural slow cooker powered by the earth. We watched a traditional Māori performance, complete with poi dances and the fierce haka. Nicola even went on stage to learn a few moves herself.
The next day, we explored Waimangu Volcanic Valley, born from an 1886 eruption. The hike took us through otherworldly terrain—hot streams, bubbling mud pools, and steaming lakes tinted by minerals. The power of nature here is humbling.
Before leaving Rotorua, we soaked in some mineral hot pools instead of taking a hostel shower—far more relaxing. The moment was interrupted when a man fainted nearby, collapsing into a urinal. I helped lift his head and call for help—thankfully he came to quickly, just dehydrated from the heat. A good reminder to drink lots of water when soaking in hot pools!
Exploring Tauranga and the Coromandels
Our next stop was Tauranga, where we climbed Mount Manganui for panoramic views of the coastline. The hostel there was filled with German backpackers working as kiwi pickers. The following day, we drove the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula, making two major stops—Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove. At Hot Water Beach, we rented a small spade and dug our own geothermal hot tub in the sand. The beach was packed, but it was still a fun experience. At Cathedral Cove, we hiked about 40 minutes to reach the iconic archway carved through the cliffs. It was beautiful, though challenging to snap a photo without a crowd in it!
By evening, we reached Thames on the other side of the Coromandels for a quick overnight stay. The next morning, we drove past Auckland and up to Mangawhai Heads, stopping along the way for fresh produce and a lovely little Saturday market. We picked up some books for Fiji, shared a pork belly sandwich, and stocked up on fruits and veggies before finding our next house-sitting home.
Settling in at Mangawhai Heads
Our new house-sitting spot at Mangawhai Heads feels peaceful. We haven’t done much yet—but after so much travel, that’s probably a good thing. We’re looking forward to a couple more weeks exploring New Zealand’s North Island before heading to Fiji for the final stretch of this adventure.
Reflections on the Road Ahead
It’s strange to think how quickly this journey has gone. Each new destination has brought fresh beauty, new people, and stories we’ll keep for life. As we near the end of our travels, I’m realizing how much I’ve come to appreciate the simple rhythm of the road—the long drives, quiet beaches, and unexpected discoveries that make travel so rich.