Our South Island road trip continued along the southern and western coasts, where wild weather mixed with spectacular scenery to make for an unforgettable adventure.
The Catlins: Rainforest Meets the Sea
After the Easter weekend, we left Dunedin and made our way south toward the Catlins, where the rainforest meets the ocean. The drive itself was beautiful, and we stopped often along the way. Our first major stop was Nugget Point, where the lighthouse overlooks a scattering of rock formations resembling golden nuggets glinting in the sea.
That night, we stayed at Surat Bay in a very cold, unheated room. From there, we took a walk on the beach just before sunset and came across a single sea lion lounging on the sand, completely unbothered by our presence.
The next morning, we visited Jack’s Blowhole — a massive sinkhole where the sea has carved its way beneath the land, crashing and churning beneath the earth before spraying mist into the air. Later, we timed our arrival at Cathedral Caves for low tide. Walking through the tall, echoing caverns carved by the ocean tides was incredible — though I did manage to soak my shoes when I didn’t notice the tide sneaking up behind me!
That night, we stayed at a cozy little cabin at Whistling Frog Park. After checking in, we hiked up to MacLean Falls — one of several stunning waterfalls that make the Catlins so special. Despite the cold, the rainforest trails and rushing water made for an unforgettable walk.
Chasing Waterfalls and Hidden Coves
The following day turned into a waterfall-filled adventure. We backtracked to visit Purakanui Falls, which turned out to be one of the most picturesque sights in the region. The weather finally cooperated, giving us a bright, clear day to enjoy it all.
We stopped at Wilkie Lake, where the perfectly still water created mirror-like reflections, and then at Matai Falls — another beautiful cascade tucked deep in the forest. Farther along, we explored Curio Bay’s petrified forest, a fossilized reminder of ancient times now preserved along the coast. Down the beach, we caught sight of a lone penguin before heading over to Porpoise Bay, where Hector’s dolphins are sometimes seen. No luck this time, but the coastline was still amazing.
Our last stop in the Catlins was Slope Point, the southernmost point of New Zealand’s South Island. Standing there, buffeted by the wind and looking south toward Antarctica, it really felt like the end of the world.
Milford Sound: A Reward for Persistence
After leaving the Catlins, we headed to Invercargill and Bluff before driving north toward Milford Sound. The rain followed us most of the way, but the forecast promised one clear day — our only window to see the famous fjord. We made it to Milford Sound late in the day and stayed in a dorm room that was far from comfortable. It was hot, smelly, and crowded, but it was all worth it for what came next.
The next morning, under a blue sky, we boarded our 9 a.m. cruise. Milford Sound was breathtaking — towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and calm reflective waters framed by rugged mountains. The decision to push through the rain and stay the night had truly paid off. After the cruise, we took our time driving back to Te Anau, stopping often for photos and a rewarding three-hour hike up to Key Hill to see the alpine Marion Lake.
Queenstown to the Glaciers
From Te Anau, we drove to Queenstown — a lively mountain town surrounded by the Southern Alps and famous for its extreme adventure activities. We skipped the bungee jumps and skydives, opting instead for peaceful walks, time in the gardens, and some well-deserved relaxation. One thing that caught my attention was frisbee golf, which I think would be fun to try back home someday.
After Queenstown, we had two big driving days ahead to reach Ruby Bay. Our midway stop was Franz Josef on the West Coast. Along the way, we learned that the road between Haast and Fox Glacier was closing for repairs after a major storm. By sheer luck, we made it across the last bridge just before it closed — the very last car allowed through. Exhausted but relieved, we reached Franz Josef at dusk.
The next day, under a clear sky, we hiked to the face of the Franz Josef Glacier and to Mirror Lake, where the still surface perfectly reflected the mountains and ice. It was one of those rare moments when everything aligned — sunshine, calm weather, and time to enjoy it all.
Pancake Rocks and Ruby Bay
Continuing north, we stopped at Punakaiki to see the famous Pancake Rocks — strange, layered limestone formations shaped by centuries of wind and waves. We even had our lunch nearby, sharing space (and sandwiches) with bold little weka birds who weren’t shy about stealing food right from our hands.
By evening, we arrived in Ruby Bay, where our host Lesley welcomed us with a warm home-cooked meal — our first in ages. We were housesitting for her, taking care of her home, dog, and cat. Rez, the energetic border terrier, and Andy, the affectionate cat, kept us entertained all week. The beach was only thirty seconds away, and the sunsets were magical — when it wasn’t raining, that is.
Exploring Golden Bay
One day, we drove up through Golden Bay and picked up a pair of hitchhikers from France. Hitchhiking is common in New Zealand and seems to work out well for most travelers. Together, we visited Te Waikoropupu Springs, where the crystal-clear water shimmered with blues and greens, and then continued to Farewell Spit, where we saw seal pups resting on the rocks while their mother watched nearby.
After dropping them off, we picked up two Austrian backpackers for part of the return trip — friendly but less fragrant after several days of camping! We kept the windows open most of the drive back. On the way, we stopped to buy fresh fruit — apples, pears, feijoas, and kumara — from roadside stands.
We also spent a sunny Saturday exploring Nelson’s weekend market, enjoying the fresh produce and lively atmosphere. Afterwards, we hiked up to the “Centre of New Zealand,” a hill offering a panoramic view of the city and surrounding mountains. Sitting at the top in the sunshine, it felt like a perfect moment of calm before the next leg of our journey.
Reflection
Our time on the South Island has been a mix of rain and sunshine, rough dorm rooms and peaceful homes, long drives and quiet beaches. Each place has brought its own surprises and stories — from sea lions and glaciers to markets and mountain trails. Tomorrow, we’ll head to Picton and take the ferry to the North Island, ready for new adventures ahead.
