Fresh off Antarctica’s high, we found ourselves asking “what now?”—and then started sketching a whole new plan for the months ahead.
Leaving Ushuaia, Early
On February 26th, we disembarked the MS Expedition at 7:30 am and were bussed to Ushuaia’s airport. Our 11:20 am LAN flight was switched to an earlier departure, getting us to Buenos Aires two hours ahead of schedule. I felt bad for my ship roommate, Alan, whose Aerolíneas flight was cancelled—he had to delay his return to England by a day.
Hostel Life, Family Edition
We checked into a hostel and awaited Nicola’s mom, Moire, and her friend Rose, who arrived after midnight. The four of us shared a quad with its own bathroom; Nic and I drew the squeaky top bunks.
First Foray into the Blue Market
With Argentina’s inflation, we set out to exchange USD on the “blue” (informal) market. Florida Street was full of “cambio, cambio” whispers. Inside one office, the count was out of view, and the rate slipped from 11.3 to 11.1, so we walked. Later, in a different office, we exchanged USD at 11.3 with a bill counter and our own counterfeit checks.
Where Next—South America or New Zealand?
We weighed a South America flight pass but eventually decided to pivot: New Zealand was calling. More on those plans below.
Aristocratic BA Walk & Evita’s Long Journey
At 5 pm, we joined BA Free Tours’ aristocratic walk with Vicky, admiring palace-like homes and finishing at Recoleta Cemetery. Her wild tale about Evita’s body—stolen, mistreated, hidden for years, then finally laid to rest—was unforgettable.
Steaks, Scams, and Small Wins
Dinner at a guide-recommended spot became the ladies’ favourite lomo of the trip. The next day, Moire and Rose were hit with the infamous “mayonnaise” distraction scam, but nearby folks warned them in time. We also fixed a LAN name mix-up (no change fee, thankfully) and bought ferry tickets to Uruguay.
Football for Me, Tango for Them
I joined a Boca vs. Vélez match package (home fans only—Argentina’s rule after past violence). The football was cagey (1–0), but the crowd sang nonstop and even forced a pause for racist chants. Meanwhile, Nic and Rose enjoyed a tango show; Moire opted out.
Cathedral, San Martín, and Street Tango
Sunday began at the understated Cathedral in Plaza de Mayo—Pope Francis’s former parish and San Martín’s resting place—then shifted to La Boca for choripán, street tango, and markets. Rose’s grin with her tango partner said it all.
One More BA Lap
The gals repeated the city free tour; Nic and I handled another blue-market exchange before crossing the river.
Rough Seas to Uruguay
Our ferry BA→Colonia was rougher than the Drake for us—nearly half the cabin was seasick. From Colonia, we bussed to Montevideo and onward to Punta del Este, breaking for lunch to avoid a long stretch without food.
Settling into Punta del Este
We tried Airbnb for the first time and loved the kitchen. PDE is pricey—our first dinner ran about $45 for two—so we cooked most meals (translation: I did dishes, Nic gleefully cooked). We walked the chilly beach, and I grabbed a much-needed (and much better than India) $20 haircut; Moire’s $75 cut stung.
Quiet Days, Needed Rest
I embraced downtime while the ladies explored. Between beach walks and errands, I used the decent Wi-Fi to wrangle upcoming buses, ferries, and stays.
Montevideo with a Local Touch
We spent two days in Montevideo and met Rose’s friend Hannah, who led us through Ciudad Vieja for a lively parrilla lunch—drums, dancers, and carnival vibes included.
Hoops, Heat, and Hecklers
Thanks to my sister, we had passes to Liga de las Américas basketball. Two Canadian refs waved from the court; when calls went against the home team, a ranting fan decided I was “with the officials” and lit me up in Spanish. We moved sections. Lesson learned: South American fans are intense.
Slow Sunday Strolls
Market hunting fizzled—rarely anything on a Sunday—but we bumped into the same two refs and laughed about the previous night. A calmer day was welcome.
Locking in the Next Chapter
We committed: two months in New Zealand. We’ll travel up to Iguazú with the gals, then Nic and I bus to Córdoba, cross into Chile, and fly on points from Santiago to Las Vegas to meet my parents for six days. From LA on April 6th we fly to Christchurch, likely rent a campervan for the South Island, then bus the North Island—slow, flexible, and stress-free. In early June, we’ll spend two weeks in Fiji on the way back to LA (June 19). After family time and Emily’s June 26th graduation in Elliot Lake, we’re eyeing Iceland for July—tentative, but tempting.
Reflection
Antarctica felt like the summit of our year—a once-in-a-lifetime crescendo. But this stretch through BA, Uruguay, and the planning nights in between reminded me that the trip’s heart isn’t a single destination; it’s momentum. Plans evolve, ferries pitch, scams happen, crowds roar, and friends materialize in unlikely places. With New Zealand sketched in and Fiji on the way home, the road ahead feels wide open again. Next update from Argentina—wish me luck at tonight’s basketball game.
