Genoa, Italy: Travel Day From Hell, Portofino & French Riviera

Genoa was our launchpad! We share our travel day from hell (missed connections & last-minute trains), plus our costly day trip to the French Riviera (Nice & Monaco). The highlight? The perfectly charming fishing village of Portofino and the gritty, real charm of Genoa itself.

This stop was really just a launching pad – a place to catch our breath before the next chapter. Genoa, Italy (or Gen-o-va if you want to sound like a local), was our final stop before our 23-day cruise, but getting here was a journey in itself.


We had bus tickets from Munich to Genoa but, in classic travel fashion, the underground shut down on the way to the bus station. We sat trapped in a tunnel for 20 minutes and missed our bus by about five minutes. Goodbye 50 euros! We hustled to the train station instead and bought last-minute tickets. Munich to Verona. Verona to Milan. Milan to Genoa. Simple, right?

Wrong. The train from Verona was 20 minutes late and – you guessed it – we missed our Milan connection. Thankfully the train company rebooked us for free but by the time we finally arrived in Genoa, we were exhausted and two hours late. Easily one of our worst travel days.


First Impressions of Genoa

We came to Genoa because this is where our cruise departs, and we gave ourselves six days to explore. There were no free walking tours (our go-to), so we picked up a map from the tourist office, downloaded the tourism app, and just wandered. Genoa has a gritty charm – narrow laneways, tall faded buildings leaning over cobblestone streets, laundry hanging between windows. It isn’t polished like Florence, but it’s real.


Walking to Boccadasse

On our second day, we walked along the coastline to Boccadasse, a charming little fishing village about 8 km away. The walk itself wasn’t life-changing, but the colourful houses clinging to the rocky shore were worth the trek. We treated ourselves to gelato and salty sea air before heading back.


A Day Trip to Nice and Monaco

We rented a car for a day thinking it was genius – just 15 euros! Except once you add 16 euros to cross into France, 20 euros in tolls, 40 euros of gas, and 16 euros for parking in Nice and Monaco… suddenly that genius idea cost over 110 euros. Don’t tell Nic I said this, but she was right – the train would’ve been cheaper.


But wow, the views. The French Riviera and Italian Riviera are stunning. The Mediterranean was a deep blue mirror and each curve of the coastline revealed another postcard moment. Nice was lively and elegant, Monaco was shiny and over the top – both worth the visit.


Portofino Perfection

Next up was a simple train trip to Portofino. Unlike Nice and Monaco, Portofino feels quiet and beautifully timeless. Tucked into a small cove surrounded by green hills and colourful houses, it’s one of those places that just feels peaceful. My family knows Portofino from the Andrea Bocelli and Michael Bolton concert DVD filmed here, so it was pretty neat to see it in person. We explored, people-watched, found a geocache, and just soaked it all in.


Goodbye Genoa, Hello Cruise Life

After a few relaxed days along the Ligurian Sea, it was finally cruise day. Our ship was only 1.5 km from our apartment, so we walked to the port (backpacks and excitement in tow) and boarded without any hassle. Next stop: a 23-day cruise across continents. Buckle up.


Reflection

Genoa wasn’t the star of this adventure, but it didn’t need to be. It reminded us that travel isn’t always glamorous – sometimes it’s long train delays, missed connections, and accidental toll roads. But it’s also sea air, little fishing villages, surprise beauty, and days that unfold slowly. Genoa was the calm before the adventure, and in its own way, it was exactly what we needed.