Our 6-night stopover in Dubai—exploring the massive malls, ascending the Burj Khalifa, enduring a terrifying desert safari, and learning about the city’s strict cultural rules. Includes tips on using the Metro and budget accommodation.
Six Nights in the Oasis: Extravagance and Desert Rules in Dubai
After finishing our month in East Africa, every reasonably priced flight to Morocco routed through either Doha or Dubai. We thought: why not? We booked a six-night stopover in Dubai, UAE—at no extra cost—before continuing to North Africa. The shift in climate was drastic: we jumped from Nairobi’s 22°C to Dubai’s scorching daytime highs in the low 40s.
Luxury on a Budget & The Modern City
Dubai can be notoriously pricey, but we used Hotwire’s Secret Deals to score a spacious four-star, one-bedroom apartment in Internet City for just $57 a night. Crucially, it included a kitchenette and a washing machine, and was located steps from the Metro—our primary mode of transport.
Dubai feels like Vegas without the vice. A decade ago, the skyline had only nine towers; today, it boasts over 900. It is a spotless, extravagant city built on the ambition of transforming oil wealth into a global hub. Only about 8% of the population is Emirati; the city is primarily run by a diverse mix of immigrants and expats, giving it a unique international energy.
Lunch with Locals and Cultural Realities
On our first day, we met friends of Nic’s mother, Rona and Colin Fleming, who had lived in Dubai for 14 years. Over lunch, they gave us invaluable insights into the stark realities of Dubai life:
- Public displays of affection are illegal.
- Debt can land expats in jail.
- Expats often abandon homes and luxury cars rather than face arrest if they lose their jobs (reportedly, 30,000 cars were abandoned at the airport during the 2008–09 crash).
Dubai, we quickly realized, operates by a very different, strict rulebook.
Modern Wonders and Desert Thrills
Despite the strict rules, the city’s sheer scale and sights are mesmerizing.
- The Malls: We visited the massive Dubai Mall (home to an indoor waterfall and a floor-to-ceiling aquarium) and the Mall of the Emirates to see its famous indoor ski slope. The food scene is incredibly international, dominated by Indian, Pakistani, and Lebanese cuisine, alongside dozens of American chains—including Tim Hortons, proudly advertised as a "Coffee and Bake Shop."
- The Burj Khalifa: Right next to the Dubai Mall, the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world, glittered against the night sky, accompanied by the famous fountain show designed by the same team as the Bellagio’s in Las Vegas.
Desert Safari: A Terrifying Roller Coaster
The highlight of our stay was the $80 desert safari. We joined a convoy of Toyota Land Cruisers, which deflated their tires and took us on an intense, terrifying "dune-bashing" roller coaster ride across the desert. Nicola, who has survived two rollover accidents, was extremely nervous. We stopped for sunset photos before heading to a Bedouin camp for a brief camel ride, dinner, and entertainment—including an incredible "spinning man" dancer.
Souks, Shopping, and Departure
Since the heat and highways make Dubai almost impossible to walk, we relied heavily on the Metro. We took an *abra* (traditional wooden boat) across the creek to explore the older, more traditional side of the city.
- The Souks: We wandered the spice, gold, and lamp souks. Nic eyed a $350 gold bangle, while I replaced my broken sunglasses with $25 "Oakleys" from a secret back-alley shop accessed via an elevator and buzzer—a true Dubai surprise.
- Dhow Cruise: We capped off one evening with a $25 dhow dinner cruise on the creek, enjoying a buffet and the bizarre highlight of a two-man "horse" wandering around for entertainment.
We spent our last couple of days relaxing and attempting to escape the heat, which made beach time nearly impossible. Early on our final morning, we flew to Casablanca. Eight hours later, we were in Morocco, ready for three weeks of adventure, starting in Fez.
