North India: Ganges Fire, Taj Mahal & Ranthambore Tigers

Part 1: Crossing the Border and Varanasi

A $12 car dropped us at Sunauli, where pedestrians shuffle across the same lane as trucks, tuk tuks, and the occasional philosophical cow. Stamped, waved onward, mildly confused—welcome to India. We splurged again on a car to Gorakhpur rather than wrestle a pair of mystery buses. Three hours of potholes, horns, tractors, dogs, and lane decisions based mostly on hope. Eyes closed = coping strategy.

We caught the overnight train and rolled into Varanasi around 5 a.m. Our guesthouse sat near the Ganges, where some eighty ghats terrace down to the water and life happens loudly in every direction. Day one was a simple loop: stroll the ghats toward Assi Ghat (dodging boat hustles), lunch, then a traffic dodge back along the road.

Blue Lassi became our homing beacon—thick, fruity, dessert-in-a-clay-cup lassis that soothed both soul and stomach. It sits near the burning ghat; as you spoon up coconut-chocolate bliss, families carry shrouded bodies past toward final rites. Surreal, human, humbling. From a sunset boat, we watched the nightly aarti: bells, chants, and fire lifting toward the sky. Gorgeous ritual; goosebumps optional but likely.

To change gears, we visited the university gardens and a temple that welcomes non-Hindus, then stitched together a “greatest hits” of transport back to the river: a moto rickshaw, a bicycle rickshaw, and a boat to finish. Final errand: a post-office adventure. Our parcel was sewn into cloth and wax-sealed like a 19th-century dispatch, then hand-walked past the queue by a very “helpful” fixer who naturally expected a tip. India, chapter one.

Part 2: Agra and the Taj Mahal

Southbound, we paid a premium for last-minute train tickets and arrived early in Agra. Breakfast came with a rooftop Taj view—silver domes over chai and parathas. After showers, a travel agent broke the bad news about trains to Rajasthan and the good news about hiring a car and driver. We ran the math and bought ourselves a week of logistics-free living. Almost certainly overpaid a little; definitely bought back our sanity.

Entry for foreigners to the Taj Mahal is steepish; a local guide was worth every rupee for line-hopping and the “stand here, wow” photo tour. Facts that stuck: ~22 years to build, marble inlaid with semi-precious stones, her cenotaph centred and his respectfully off to the side, and minarets tilted outward a couple degrees so an earthquake would drop them away from the tomb. Ornate, immense, and somehow gentle—you feel it in your ribs.

Part 3: The Tiger Hunt in Ranthambore

From Agra, we rolled toward Sawai Madhopur for our tiger hunt in Ranthambore National Park, Rajasthan. We spent two nights there and booked four safaris, each lasting about three hours. We knew there were no guarantees of seeing a tiger, but everything we’d read suggested multiple safaris increased your odds.

Our first two safaris (Zones 2, 4, and 5) brought no luck, though we saw monkeys, deer, peacocks, wild boar, crocodiles, and owls. Guides rely on tracks and animal alarm calls to locate them. By the third safari, I tried to prepare myself for disappointment. As we headed back toward the gate, our guide suddenly perked up. We sped off toward a crowd of vehicles. And there it was—a magnificent male tiger, standing in plain sight about forty feet away. I snapped photos furiously until he disappeared into the jungle. The entire moment lasted less than a minute, but it was unforgettable. Seeing even one was an incredible stroke of luck.

Part 4: Roads, Royals, and Rajasthani Charm

After our final safari, we began the long drive to Jodhpur. We’d been told it was a seven or eight-hour journey—it took eleven. Driving in India is harrowing enough in daylight; after dark, it’s downright terrifying. We arrived late to find our hotel overbooked, but our driver arranged another one for us—a beautiful 18th-century aristocratic home owned by the same family for 200 years. The next morning, we visited the Amber Fort, a massive mountaintop fortress once home to the Maharaja of Jodhpur. At a nearby temple, Nicola once again became a local celebrity, surrounded by schoolchildren eager to take her photo.

From Jodhpur, we drove to Jaipur, the Pink City. I surprised Nicola by booking the Peacock Suite she had admired earlier. Our driver, who seemed to know everyone in Jaipur, guided us through the city with ease. We explored the City Palace and admired the painted elephants. Nicola had a ring made using a tanzanite she bought in Tanzania and two small diamonds from a ring her mother gave her years ago—a custom 24-hour masterpiece for only $100. I had a suit and shirt made for Emily’s graduation. We also tried the famous Lassiwala on MI Road—thick, sweet, and served in clay cups.

Part 5: Delhi Dash and Southbound

Our final stop before the coast was Delhi. After yet another long drive, we did almost nothing on our first day. The next afternoon, we ventured out to Connaught Place, had a vegetarian McDonald’s meal (no beef in India!), and explored a few modern shops. Nicola finally got a haircut, which looks great, even if she thinks it’s too short.

On Sunday, we hired a driver for some last-minute sightseeing: the Lotus Temple, India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, the Sikh Temple, and Qutub Minar. It was crowded but worth it. Our driver was fantastic—funny, helpful, and full of energy. He even helped us package and ship a parcel home.

In a handful of days, we stepped over a border drawn in dust, watched fire and faith braid together on a river, stood in front of love carved in stone, and saw a tiger. India is louder than my thoughts and bigger than my patience, but it keeps handing me moments I’ll carry for a long time. That feels like a win.