Our fast-paced Vietnam Itinerary! We braved the motorbike chaos of Ho Chi Minh City, got multiple custom outfits in Hoi An (plus my first tattoo!), visited the Mekong Delta and spent Christmas cruising the limestone karsts of Halong Bay. We also day-tripped to Ninh Bình!
I’m so far behind on posts… sorry! On December 8, 2019, we bussed from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City. Our guesthouse was tiny but perfectly located. First mission: cash. Vietnam ATMs usually cap withdrawals around 3,000,000 VND, and despite chasing rumours of a high-limit machine, the best we found was a Citibank ATM that gave 6,000,000 VND. Not exactly the cultural welcome I imagined, but wandering for an ATM doubled as a city intro. Dinner ended up being the only time we ate McDonald’s in Vietnam—purely because they took credit cards.
Getting our bearings (and bowls)
Day two was pure drift: steaming bowls of phở and a noodle dish piled with beef, herbs, and a splash of broth; new lenses for my scratched glasses; a massage for me while Nic tried nails and a haircut (the cut… not great). On the walk back, we booked a Mekong Delta day trip.
Mekong Delta day trip
Our tour hopscotched through fruit tastings, honey tea, and a short paddle on a jungle channel. Locals sang, we floated, and later we visited a Buddhist temple with a massive reclining Buddha and a very jovial sitting Buddha. The bus dropped us near the main market—chaos in the best way.
Red sea of motorbikes
That night Bùi Viện (the backpacker street) went absolutely feral—Vietnam beat Cambodia in the SEA Games final. Imagine a river of motorbikes, flags, horns, and zero gaps to cross. Ho Chi Minh City has ~15 million people and ~12 million motorbikes; I’m convinced every single one paraded past us. Wild, loud, and kind of wonderful.
Markets, little wins, and cheap comforts
The next few days were low-key: haggling in Ben Thanh for silk scarves and daypacks (I mailed the scarves home for Christmas), movies, and more massages. Nic finally retired her 17-year-old knockoff backpack for a “new” knockoff. Some traditions endure.
Hoi An: from one suit to a suitcase
On December 13, we flew HCM → Da Nang and transferred to Hoi An. Our homestay was walkable to everything. The plan: one suit for me. Reality: two suits, two long-sleeve shirts, three short-sleeve shirts for me; two skirts, two pairs of shorts, two rompers, and a dress for Nic. We also each had custom shoes made. Multiple fittings over three days, not as cheap as the legends suggest, but the fit felt fantastic.
My first tattoo
I finally did it: world map with “Big World 2 See” underneath at a spotless studio in Hoi An. About two hours, ~CAD $150, and I walked out grinning. Tattoo-virgin no more.
Bikes, bamboo, and lanterns
We pedalled 7–8 km to the beach on a cool, breezy morning, parked the bikes, and wandered the sand. One evening, we saw the AO Show—think bamboo, acrobatics, and a minimalist cirque vibe. Most nights, we drifted the lantern-lit riverfront; we even took a quick ten-minute “romantic” boat ride because why not.
Eating Hoi An
Local hits to chase: White Rose dumplings, morning glory salad, cao lầu, and bánh mì. Over dinner at a highly reviewed spot, we met Keny, an American living in Thailand on a visa run—we kept bumping into him around town. Travel has a funny way of shrinking the world.
Hanoi: food pilgrimages and long walks
On December 19, we flew from Da Nang → Hanoi, with a quick photo stop at the Dragon Bridge on the way to the airport. In Hanoi, we circled the lake and night market, then met Keny for a proper bun chả pilgrimage the next day and hunted down the original egg coffee. We squeezed in the Museum of History and drifted onto Beer Street almost by accident. It became a full day very fast.
Free tour, big stories
A truly free walking tour (run for English practice) took us to the site where Ho Chi Minh signed the declaration of independence, the old city gate, a traditional home, and back to the concert stage where artists were rehearsing—including a famous transgender singer sweeping by with her security. Only-in-Hanoi moments.
Mausoleum, palace, and the war bunker
The next morning, we queued early for the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum—long lines, steady flow, seconds to pay respects. From there, we wandered the Presidential Palace grounds, the One Pillar Pagoda, and the Imperial Citadel with its preserved command bunker. History here is never just in textbooks; it’s under your feet.
Ninh Bình in a day
We day-tripped to Ninh Bình: the ancient capital at Hoa Lư, a two-hour Trang An boat ride through grottoes (our rower was an absolute powerhouse), and a 500-step climb to a hilltop pagoda with rice-field views. Legs burning, camera happy.
Halong Bay for Christmas
December 24–26, we splurged on a two-night Halong Bay cruise (~CAD $400 each) as our Christmas gifts to each other. Most guests do one night; we were the only two-nighters on our boat, which meant real time among the karsts instead of van time. Day one: boat through grottoes. Day two: day-boat and long kayak. Day three: cave hike before heading back. Christmas Eve meant a goofy little gift exchange under a tree on the deck. Corny and perfect.
One last slice and wheels up
Back in Hanoi, we checked into the same homestay—super kind staff—and grabbed wood-fired pizza within arm’s reach of the oven. On December 27, we flew to Luang Prabang, Laos, for the next chapter.
Reflection
Vietnam felt like a fast-forward button: motorbike tides in Saigon, tailor chalk and bamboo stages in Hoi An, history under glass and underground in Hanoi, limestone cathedrals in Ninh Bình and Halong. We came for bowls and bays and ended up with better-fitting clothes, a new tattoo, and a few unexpected friends. If Madagascar taught us to love the long road, Vietnam taught us to enjoy the detours—especially the ones we didn’t plan.
