Our first stop in Serbia! We were charmed by the Art Nouveau architecture of Subotica, took a controversial “20th Century” walking tour in Belgrade, visited the Tesla Museum, and biked the shores of the Sava and Danube rivers. Plus, we share the essential (and complex) background to the Yugoslav wars.
We left Budapest on September 9th by train bound for Serbia, with a first stop in Subotica just across the border. The crossing is unusual: Hungarian officers board to scan and stamp passports, the train rolls forward to a fenced gate, Serbian officers wave it through, collect everyone’s passports, and return them stamped. The whole process took about 1.5 hours—then the train moved maybe 200 metres and stopped at Subotica station. Serbia, hello.
Subotica: Art Nouveau Mini-Break
We only had two days in Subotica, but the compact centre was worth the detour. City Hall, the theatre, ornate façades—even the McDonald’s—show off flamboyant Art Nouveau details. We wandered, admired tile work and curvy lines, and watched Serbia play Argentina in the Men’s Basketball World Championships at a small outdoor café/bar. A pretty town, easy to enjoy at a slow pace.
First Evening in Belgrade: The Waterfront
From Subotica we bussed to Belgrade. After dinner we strolled the long Belgrade Waterfront along the Sava and Danube—part of a big revitalization push. The skyline views were lovely, and we read about a planned skyscraper project reportedly funded from the Emirates.
Belgrade’s 20th Century: A Tour With a Point of View
We began with a “20th Century” walking tour. The guide told us up front it wouldn’t be politically correct—and it wasn’t. It was unapologetically Serbian-nationalist in tone, but still useful for understanding how many locals frame the Yugoslav wars and the 1999 NATO bombings. We visited sites tied to bombings and politics, and the perspective set up comparisons we’d later hear in Bosnia and Croatia.
Very Short Backgrounder on Yugoslavia
After WWI, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes formed—the first union of the South Slavs—later renamed Yugoslavia. WWII left deep scars, including atrocities and resentments that lingered. Post-war, Yugoslavia was communist but non-aligned under Tito, who kept the federation together until his death in 1980. Economic strain and surging nationalism led to break-up and wars from 1991–1995, with a further conflict in Kosovo in 1999. The history is complex; hearing it across borders helps.
Nikola Tesla Museum & A Tiny Cinema
After lunch we visited the small but lively Tesla Museum for demos about alternating current and other inventions. Later we treated ourselves to the new Downton Abbey film in a tiny theatre—tickets were about $3 and there were fewer than ten people inside.
Downtown Tour & The Fortress
Next morning’s free “Downtown” tour began at Republic Square, wound through the Bohemian Quarter, past the city’s only mosque, and into Kalemegdan Park and Belgrade Fortress. The fortress is free and offers sweeping views over the Sava and Danube. Our guide shared a taste of rakija—homemade fruit brandy that’s basically liquid fire—and we returned at sunset to join couples enjoying the golden light.
Biking New Belgrade & Zemun
We rented bikes on the waterfront (about $8 for the day) and rode both banks, crossing into New Belgrade and on to Zemun. The riverside is lined with floating cafés, restaurants, and clubs. We parked the bikes at one floating bar for a very relaxed, very well-earned beer stop that turned into a couple of rounds.
Meat Feast & Miss Serbia
Dinner was a traditional mixed grill—Serbia loves its grilled meats. We accidentally ordered a full kilogram and added a couple of salads; breakfast and bus-ride leftovers were sorted. Back at Republic Square a stage show turned out to be part of Miss Serbia. We waited ages for the start, watched the pageantry and interviews, and tried to guess who was famous. If you recognize anyone, tell us!
Onward to Bosnia and Herzegovina
We wrapped up our time in Belgrade with a final riverside walk and caught the bus to Sarajevo the next day. More Balkan history and perspectives ahead.
Reflection
Serbia challenged us—in a good way. The Art Nouveau calm of Subotica, the easy river rhythms of Belgrade, and then the jolt of memory at bomb-scarred sites all sat side by side. Hearing a proudly Serbian narrative made the region’s history feel less abstract and more human, especially once we compared it with stories in Sarajevo and later in Croatia. If there’s one takeaway, it’s that the Balkans resist simple summaries. Come ready to listen, to sit with contradictions, and to let a sunset over two rivers soften the edges.
