Our 9-day Malta Itinerary! We used a 7-day bus pass to explore Valletta, the ancient walled city of Mdina, and the tiny island of Gozo. We share the story of the WWII bomb miracle at the Mosta Dome, the Knights of St. John history, and our dinner-and-dance experience.
After an exciting 19 days in Jordan, we spent a slower 9 days in Malta. Malta is a small island about 80 km south of Sicily, east of Tunisia and north of Libya. It’s the tenth smallest country in the world but the fifth most densely populated, with about 500,000 people. The main island is roughly 27 km long and 14.5 km wide, and the country actually comprises three islands: Malta, Gozo, and Comino. Malta is part of the EU.
Some people assume Malta is part of Italy and that people speak Italian. Despite the proximity, the Maltese language has more in common with Arabic than Italian. Malta was a British commonwealth for many years and, during World War II, was heavily bombed by Mussolini because of its strategic location for shipping and access to Europe and Africa.
Mosta Base & Getting Around
We stayed in Mosta, almost in the middle of Malta. It’s quieter but well located for accessing the whole island. On arrival, we bought a 7-day bus pass for 21 euros, which gives unlimited rides; a single two-hour ticket is 2 euros. We easily took at least two rides a day, so it paid off. Another option is 12 tickets for 15 euros—good if you’ll average only two rides daily—then top up on day seven. If you’ll ride more on any day, the 21-euro pass is better value.
We booked an Airbnb with our host, Massimo. His wife and kids were away, so it was just him—an exceptionally generous and helpful host. We had our own room and bathroom (there was another let with its own bathroom as well). Breakfast was included: yoghurt, fruit, toast, cereal, and coffee/tea. We don’t often love sharing with homeowners, but this was a great experience.
Valletta & A Bite of History
On our first day, we took the bus to Valletta for a free evening walking tour. We’d already explored parts of the city beforehand. Valletta, the capital, is perched on a hill and its story is tightly linked to the Knights of St. John (Knights Hospitaller), a Catholic military order founded to care for the sick and poor travelling to the Holy Land. They were headquartered in Malta from 1530 to 1798, and their legacy is everywhere, from fortifications to hospitals. Today, the order’s tradition of first aid continues through St. John Ambulance.
Speed-run history we learned: prehistoric settlement attempts came and went due to rocky land and scarce fresh water; the Phoenicians established a trading post and the Semitic roots of the language; the Romans set up administration in Mdina and spread Catholicism; Arabs rebuilt the city and left major cultural marks; the Normans stamped out Islam and Maltese evolved further from Arabic; the Knights dug in and withstood the Great Siege of 1565 against roughly 40,000 Ottoman troops; Napoleon seized Malta in 1798, abolished slavery, and looted art; the British ousted the French in 1800 and used Malta as a fortress and hospital hub in WWI; in WWII Malta was heavily bombed yet resilient and awarded the George Cross for bravery; self-rule returned in 1947, independence in 1964, republic in 1974, and EU membership in 2004.
Every day at noon and 4 pm, there’s a ceremonial cannon firing over the harbour—except Sunday. We were in position at 4 pm on a Sunday and missed it. Ah well.
Mdina & Rabat
Next day we visited Mdina and Rabat. Mdina, the former administrative centre and a UNESCO site, is a walled city of narrow lanes and sandstone glow. It was scorchingly hot—low 30s with high humidity—so we paced ourselves. In Rabat, the highlight was the catacombs. There are several paid sites, but St. Cataldus Catacomb works on donations and gives a great sense of the subterranean honeycomb carved from rock to lay parishioners to rest. The elderly attendant was lovely and immediately bonded with Nic.
Sliema, St. Paul’s Bay & A/C Hunts
We hopped to Sliema and St. Paul’s Bay on an oven-hot day that had us chasing shade more than sights. We found a breezy perch on seaside rocks and later retreated to a mall to cool off. That evening we bused to Bugibba and watched a movie—The Art of Racing in the Rain—in an empty theatre. Blissfully cool.
Ta’ Marija: Dinner & Dance
We’d eyed a dinner-and-show near Mosta called Ta’ Marija. Being five minutes away, we skipped their transport package and booked a 25-euro set menu: bruschetta and ravioli starters, rabbit for me (a Maltese specialty), and bream for Nic, plus desserts from a trolley. The show featured traditional dances on a small floor that raised up. I got hauled up for a number—let’s just say my Dancing with the Stars debut is on indefinite hold, but it was fun.
Maltese Nights (…Sort Of)
With Nic under the weather earlier that day, we rallied for an evening cultural show called Maltese Nights at the Valletta Waterfront. Finding it took some doing. We arrived early, only to discover there was no real organization. Staff wheeled the stage in front of a restaurant, and seating was basically “dine or stand.” Not what we’d hoped—our advice is to skip it.
Gozo Day Trip
Gozo made a perfect day out. From Mosta, it’s about 1 hour 15 minutes by bus to the ferry, then a 20-minute crossing (about 5 euros return). Our Malta bus passes also worked on Gozo. We stopped in Xewkija to see the huge dome church, continued to Victoria to wander the Citadel, and lunched in Marsalforn with our feet dangling in the sea. The island is linked in myth as Calypso’s home in the Odyssey—easy to imagine with those views.
The Mosta Dome
Back in Mosta, we toured the famed dome church, often cited among the largest unsupported domes in the world. During WWII, a bomb pierced the roof during a service and didn’t explode; no one was killed. A replica of the bomb is on display, and the story fuels the church’s “miracle” reputation. Your ticket also includes the nearby bomb shelter: fascinating, though extremely humid and moldy inside. The view from the upper gallery is fantastic.
Snorkeling Attempts
We tried snorkelling at St. Paul’s Bay and later up on the north end of the island. Crowds put me off at the latter, so Nic went in while I stayed beached. At St. Paul’s Bay, I joined her—fewer people and I was melting anyway. The snorkelling was fine, but, admittedly, not in the same league as the Red Sea. We may be spoiled now.
Marsaxlokk & St. Peter’s Pool
On our last full day, Massimo kindly drove us to Marsaxlokk for the famous fish market. It’s far more than fish—a long waterfront sprawl of stalls selling clothes, electronics, food, and everything in between. After a long browse, we walked about 35 minutes to St. Peter’s Pool, a natural swimming cove where people leap and dive from the rocks. We didn’t bring swimsuits, so we spectated and cheered on the brave.
The Three Cities & Wrap-Up
After lunch in Marsaxlokk, we bussed to the Three Cities—Birgu (Vittoriosa), Senglea (Isla), and Bormla (Cospicua)—which sit across the bay from Valletta. We mostly explored Vittoriosa. It was Sunday, so many places were closed; in hindsight, we’d allow more time, but it’s always good to leave something for next time. Back in Mosta, I even squeezed in a quick geocache near a small church.
Departure & Reflection
We flew out on September 2nd at 11:25 am, heading back to mainland Europe—Budapest, Hungary, up next. Malta gave us history-soaked cities, dome-topped skylines, and slow, sun-drenched days. If Jordan was all adrenaline and awe, Malta was the exhale: buses and breezes, stone alleys and seafood, a few misses and plenty of small wins. We didn’t do everything—and that’s a pretty good reason to return.
