Our epic Tanzania Part 2 adventure: the 6-day challenge of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro (and turning back at 5,200m), followed by a 4-day safari across the Serengeti, Tarangire, and Ngorongoro Crater, including a spectacular leopard kill.
Tanzania Part 2: High Altitude & High Adventure (Kilimanjaro & Safari)
After navigating the island life of Zanzibar, we flew to Moshi for the second phase of our Tanzanian adventure: testing myself on Africa's highest peak, followed by four days immersed in the wild plains of the Serengeti.
Mount Kilimanjaro: The Price of a Dream
Kilimanjaro—at nearly 5,900 meters—was a dream challenge, far exceeding my previous climb of Mt. Kinabalu. The climb was a significant investment, costing close to $2,000 USD for the 6-day package, gear, and tipping. Given the altitude and the cost, Nic opted out, happily staying at a budget hostel in Moshi while I set off.
I joined Lawrence, my guide from Ahsante Tours, on the Marangu route (the "Coca Cola route"). Despite its tame nickname, the climb was gruelling:
- Day 1 & 2: The rainforest trek was hot, humid, and quickly led to nausea and vomiting. Lawrence, who ended up carrying my pack for a stretch, enforced the mountain mantra: **"Pole Pole"** (slowly, slowly).
- The Turning Point: A gentle acclimatization hike on Day 3 saved me. Lawrence limited my medication and instead prescribed "Water for life"—three litres a day. Following orders, I began to recover, realizing I was sleeping above the clouds at 3,600m.
- The Decision: We pushed up to Kibo Hut at 4,700m, but after a short nap, the nausea and headaches returned violently. At 11 p.m., we set out for the summit, but by 5,200m, I knew I was done. I turned back, realizing that the journey—testing myself and listening to my body—mattered more than the certificate.
I may have left the “roof of Africa” unsummited, but I reached a full kilometre higher than ever before. More importantly, I walked away with Lawrence’s simple wisdom: “Enjoy and be happy.”
Safari Njema: Into the Wild
After descending, I reunited with Nicola, and we set out on our four-day, three-night safari with African Scenic Safaris ($750 USD each). We were joined by two Swedish travellers and set off through Tarangire, the Serengeti, and the Ngorongoro Crater, camping inside the parks.
Tarangire National Park: A Cinematic Welcome
Our first game drive in Tarangire was immediately unforgettable. We were surrounded by elephants, zebras, and impalas. As the sun set, we spotted our first lions, their eyes glowing beautifully in the fading light. That night, camping inside the park was surreal; I peeked out of the tent to find dozens of impalas grazing meters away, and woke to giraffes and elephants gathering at dawn—it truly felt like waking up inside a wildlife documentary.
The next morning, the park gifted us more lion sightings, but the highlight was a massive elephant that paused right beside our truck, sniffing our garbage box. I could see every hair on his eyelashes.
The Long Road to the Serengeti (and a Crash)
The seven-hour drive toward the Serengeti, passing through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area (home to the Masai), was chaotic. Driving in Tanzania is not for the faint of heart. Then, the unthinkable happened: our guide, Johnny, clipped a police truck while passing a bus and was thrown into a ditch. Thankfully, no one was hurt, and in a true display of safari camaraderie, we were quickly shuttled between guides until Dennis took over for the rest of our trip.
Serengeti: Endless Plains and a Leopard’s Kill
The Serengeti—the Masai word for “endless plains”—is a golden savannah stretching forever. We watched a wild, flamboyant mating dance performed by a male ostrich and explored hippo pools where a massive crocodile guarded a dead hippo.
But the true magic came at sunrise. Dozens of vehicles gathered beneath a tree where a mother leopard and her cubs were resting. Suddenly, the mother returned, hauling a freshly killed gazelle up the tree. The scene was raw, powerful, and unforgettable. That night, with lions roaring in the distance, we camped under the Serengeti stars.
Ngorongoro Crater: Lions on the Hunt
Our final stop was the Ngorongoro Crater, a collapsed volcano often called a “bowl of food.” From our camp on the rim, zebras wandered freely among the tents. Descending into the crater, we were surrounded by flamingos, warthogs, and lions. A lioness strolled casually down the road beside our vehicle, close enough to touch. Though we missed the elusive rhino, we saw nearly everything: lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo, giraffes, hippos, and more.
Onward Again: After four incredible days, we caught a bus to Nairobi, checking the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater off the bucket list.
