Our essential Jordan Itinerary guide! We detail how to buy and use the Jordan Pass (a must!), our 3 days exploring Petra (and climbing 850 steps to the Monastery), floating in the Dead Sea, the Martian landscape of Wadi Rum, and the incredible Red Sea snorkeling in Aqaba.
Good morning from Aqaba, Jordan. Down at the south end of Jordan, Aqaba is a port town on the Red Sea. We’re very close to Eilat, Israel—directly across the bay—and only about 26 kilometres north of Saudi Arabia. This may be the closest we ever get to Saudi Arabia as they aren’t open to tourists (yet!). With daily highs in the low 40s, the midday heat isn’t ideal for being outside, so I’m hiding in the AC to share an update from our time in Jordan.
Getting to Jordan
We flew into Amman on August 5th from Krakow with Ryanair—hard to argue with a ~$110 CAD fare including bags. The flight was about 3.5 hours, and we landed before noon.
Practical tips we found helpful
1) Go! Jordan is gorgeous and welcoming. We’ve felt safe and looked after everywhere—great for budget travellers and folks who prefer a little more comfort.
2) Don’t over-plan. Leaving room to decide on the spot saved us money and gave us flexibility.
3) Buy the Jordan Pass before arrival. It covers your 40 JD tourist visa and entry to major sites, including Petra (choose 1/2/3-day options). We bought the 80 JD “Expert” (3 days at Petra) and it paid for itself fast. Optional add-ons like the baptism site can be tacked on if you’re sure you’ll go.
4) Grab a local SIM. At the airport, you’ll find Zain, Orange, and Umniah. We chose Umniah’s tourist plan (20 JD) for heaps of data and hotspotting—handy since many guesthouse Wi-Fi’s were slow or lobby-only.
5) Use ride-hailing in Amman. Careem and Uber worked well and removed the price-haggling stress. Airport → downtown was 21 JD for ~50 mins.
6) Collect drivers’ numbers. If you click with someone, swap WhatsApp and negotiate a fair day rate for trips to Petra, the Dead Sea, etc. Expect to barter—first prices are rarely the best.
7) Consider hostels with common areas. We stayed at the Jordan Tower Hotel: simple private room with bathroom (~28 JD), filling breakfasts, and super helpful staff. Booking direct can be cheaper than third-party sites. The best perk: easy to meet other travellers to share rides and tips.
First wander in Amman (& a spa-level haircut)
After a nap, we strolled to the Roman Theatre (saved our entry for later with the Jordan Pass), scoped the neighbourhood, and I ducked into a barbershop. For 5 JD, I got a cut, threading, and ear/nose waxing (teary eyes were involved). I splurged another 10 JD for a full facial—worth it for the story alone.
Dead Sea day: float, mud, views
We joined two Canadian travellers for a day trip organized by the hostel (25 JD per person). Resorts on the Dead Sea charge a day-use fee—ours was 15 JD and included beach access, pools, loungers, and showers. Floating in that super-salty water is as wild as it looks; avoid dunking and definitely protect your eyes. We slathered on the natural mud, let it dry, and rinsed—velvety skin achieved.
From there, we climbed to the “Panorama” viewpoint for sweeping looks into Jordan and Palestine, then continued to Mount Nebo (2 JD, not on the Pass), where tradition says Moses viewed the Promised Land. We ended in Madaba—famous for spectacular mosaics. Tip: research sites beforehand; drivers aren’t guides, and we missed a couple of Pass-included spots by not reading ahead.
Cooking Jordanian-style
Back in Amman, we joined a class at Beit Sitti with a lively group (including locals). We learned several dishes, including maqluba—layered veg, rice and chicken flipped out of the pot like a savoury cake. As the “eldest gentleman,” I got the honour (and terror) of the flip. Success!
Amman days: theater, markets & history
We finally toured the Roman Theatre and its small museums (Jordan Pass), and—small world moment—bumped into our Canadian financial advisor who recognized Nic from Facebook! Later, we joined a 5 pm free walking tour with Muhammed, a lifelong local who guided us through downtown’s markets and shared context about Jordan’s demographics and refugee history.
We climbed up to the hilltop Citadel, wandered the excellent Jordan Museum (not on the Pass, still worth it), and peeked at Rainbow Street (more touristy than our vibe but fun people-watching).
Jerash & Ajloun day trip
We debated taking local buses but ended up hiring our Uber driver for the day (45 JD for four of us), which was simpler. Jerash is an astonishingly preserved Roman city; afterwards, we drove 15 minutes to the 12th-century Ajloun Castle for hilltop views.
South via the King’s Highway
We transferred to Petra via the scenic King’s Highway with quick stops at Kerak Castle, Umm al Rasas (gorgeous mosaics), Shobak Castle (I snagged a geocache!), and Dana Reserve. Our Jordan Pass covered the entries.
Petra: three days, many steps
We based ourselves in Wadi Musa at the Valentine Inn—simple rooms, legendary 7 JD dinners, and a handy shuttle to the gate. Petra itself is every bit as jaw-dropping as you imagine. The Siq opens to the Treasury, and beyond lie royal tombs, collonaded streets, and—after 850 steps—the Monastery (bigger than the Treasury!).
Across three days, we mixed trails: Monastery and viewpoints on Day 1 (~20 km), the High Place of Sacrifice loop on Day 2 (~16 km) with impromptu local guides, and a climb to the overlook above the Treasury on Day 3 (~14 km). Hot, dusty, unforgettable.
Wadi Rum: red sand & starry skies
We teamed up with new friends and headed to Wadi Rum for a 4x4 desert tour and one night at the 7 Pillars Camp. Think Martian landscapes (literally—scenes from The Martian were filmed here), natural rock bridges, and a sunset that glows. Our Jordan Pass covered the reserve fee.
Aqaba: Red Sea days
We wrapped up with six days in Aqaba purely to snorkel. Shore-entry sites line South Beach, so we went early mornings and at sunset. Highlights: scorpion fish, unicorn fish, clown fish, lionfish, the Japanese Garden reef, the Cedar Pride wreck, a submerged tank, and even a sunken aircraft. The beaches themselves aren’t the cleanest, but step into the water and it’s another world.
We stayed at Darna Divers’ Village, steps from the water. Food options nearby are limited and a bit pricey, and the sand has its share of litter, but the sunsets were magic and the reef life more than made up for it.
Final thoughts
Jordan surprised us in the best ways—kind people, deep history, and landscapes that don’t feel real. If you come, leave room for the unexpected: the last-minute group you’ll share a car with, the guide who becomes a friend, and the extra viewpoint you decide to climb “just because.” Those moments became our favourites.
