Hammerheads & Sea Lion Bites: Caribbean Cruise & Galápagos

This trip was a complete whirlwind defined by last-minute decisions and unbelievable experiences. It started with a cruise, moved into a multi-city adventure in Colombia, and culminated in the trip Nicola and I had been talking about for years: the Galápagos Islands.

Part 1: The Western Caribbean Cruise on the Norwegian Pearl

We sailed out of Miami on the Norwegian Pearl, starting an 11-night itinerary that spanned New Year's. Nicola was on fire with travel notes, and I was just enjoying the ride. The partial transit of the Panama Canal was for Nicola's birthday — a spectacular feat of engineering. I was amazed when we were right alongside a massive banana ship, the Chiquita! The taxes for that part drove the cruise price up a bit, but it was absolutely worth it.

Roatán, Honduras, was Nicola's favourite stop. She was willing to splash out and paid a local to take us out to the Blue Channel for some great snorkelling. We definitely enjoyed some rather strong piña coladas afterwards, too.

Our stop in Harvest Caye, Belize, was at the cruise ship's private island. Nicola felt it wasn't really "our thing," so we walked past the resort-style area to an out-of-bounds section and used our own snorkels. There was an okay reef, and we were entertained watching a bunch of pelicans diving nearby.

In Puerto Limón, Costa Rica, we were lucky enough to see sloths in the park, including a little baby. The weather was perfect the whole cruise, which Nicola noted was a miracle since it had rained for two weeks straight before we arrived.

And in Costa Maya, Mexico, I bought Nicola a tanzanite ring for her birthday. Unfortunately, her fingers were a bit swollen from the heat after we'd walked to a beach town, so it's currently a bit big!

Part 2: A Hilarious Detour in Colombia

We got off the ship early in Cartagena, Colombia, missing the last two sea days. We met Nicola's mum, Moire, and her friend Rose, and immediately explored the unbelievably beautiful old walled city. Since the cruise was early January, all the Christmas lights were still up, making it feel magical. We started our stay at the Hotel San Felipe Plaza.

After a week, Moire and Rose headed off to Medellín ("Med-e-zjeen or Med-e-yeen"), while Nicola and I headed up the coast. Nicola kept saying she wanted to go to Santa Marta. I kept telling her we had been there before, but she wouldn't believe me! So, we went. We stayed at the Magic House in Taganga and tried to visit Tayrona National Park. We eventually got a ride to a different part of the park, but the sea was so rough that they got everyone out of the water and off the beach. The day before, a restaurant had washed away! Later, when we were in Santa Marta, I took a picture of Nicola in front of one of the sites. Then, I pulled up a Facebook post from years before showing her in front of the same exact site. Score for Jeff!!!

Before leaving Colombia, Moire and Nicola went to a local volcano for a mud bath. Nicola returned with a great story about the experience: climbing the bunking hill, having a man massage her with mud, and then descending the muddy stairs to the waterfront where women had big barrels of water and scrubbed the mud off (and scrubbed the bathing suit, inside and out). Nicola said, "You can't be shy for this experience," and she was still getting mud out of her ears days later.

Part 3: The Galápagos Dream

We flew from Cartagena to Quito, Ecuador, where we had a very short visit — arriving at noon and flying out the next morning. Quito is a beautiful city, but it was tough on the lungs due to the altitude and the incredibly steep streets. It was very cheap though: we had a full meal for less than $5 USD for both of us! We got some free beer courtesy of an American guy, too.

We had been talking about the Galápagos for years, and we booked the trip of a lifetime very last minute. We booked on the 12th for a cruise starting on the 16th and got a great deal. The minute we got back from the Queen of Galapagos Yacht cruise, Nicola's only report was: "MIND IS BLOWN!!!!!!!!"

The boat was a large, stable catamaran, which was a huge plus, and we only had 14 other great people on board. We really lucked out — our guide had a Master's in biology and 10 years of experience.

The Wildlife Encounters:
Nicola called us the "super snorkellers!" The animals were completely unbothered by us. We swam with the playful sea lions (they were everywhere and willing to play!) and the incredibly graceful sea turtles. I got a taste of my own medicine, though. I was teasing a sea lion off the back of the boat by dipping my toes in the water and pulling them back. The sea lion nipped my toes, and I was bleeding. It is very easy to get infected, so the crew was very concerned that my cuts be cleaned properly.

By the end of the trip, we were getting picky about the sharks we were seeing, but our sighting of Hammerhead sharks was definitely the cherry on top. We saw giant land tortoises, and the sea turtles were often a little frisky. I even caught a few things outside my bathroom window on the boat — penguins, dolphins, and beautiful sunrises! I can no longer shower without a view!

Our final two nights, after the cruise was done, were on San Cristóbal, where we stayed at a place with a great view for only $25 a night. On our last night, a sea lion walked right through the restaurant, and we saw another one wearing a T-shirt — an unbelievable end to an unbelievable trip!

Before flying back home, we made sure to do the Kicker Rock day trip, where we got to see marine iguanas and more turtles swimming close by. There were probably about 50 hammerheads all swimming below us. The scuba divers, however, did not see them because they were down below the sharks.

A scary moment happened when the boat left me while I was snorkelling. Even Nicola did not notice that I was missing. I panicked a bit when I realized that the boat was completely gone. It did not last long. The boat returned maybe five minutes later. I was saved.

Logistics and Trip Costs Summary

Flights & Key Bookings: We primarily used Aeroplan miles for our flights, with a few crucial cash bookings to bridge the trip. The flight from Quito (UIO) to San Cristóbal (SCY) cost us C$637.78 for both tickets. Our return flights from SCY to Edmonton, via Quito and Houston and Toronto, were covered by Aeroplan miles. The Galápagos cruise on the Queen of Galapagos Yacht was an 8-day/7-night trip, which we booked only a few days before it began! We paid $2,200 USD each for this cruise.

Accommodation Details and Costs: We used Air Miles for the night before the cruise at the BEST WESTERN Plus Miami Airport North. In Cartagena, our first two nights at the Hotel San Felipe Plaza cost us $318.42 CAD. Our stay in Taganga at the Magic House was a great deal, estimated at COP 150,000 per night. Our pre- and post-cruise stays in San Cristóbal were at the Galapagos Eco-Friendly hotel. The first night's booking confirmation showed a price of $59.85 CAD, and the subsequent nights were only about $25 USD per night, confirming Nicola's comment about it being a great deal!

Galápagos Details: As we were booking very last minute, we contacted local travel agents directly. They were able to tell us which boats were going soon and give us their last-minute prices. There was actually quite a variance between some of their prices for the same cruises. You can do a lot of price research online but don't be afraid to contact people on the ground in San Cristobal. If you want to book long in advance, expect to pay quite a bit more. The other challenge may be payment. You may have to send a cash deposit somehow. This may involve an internation bank transfer and if you are on the road when you are booking this can be challenging.

Also, do your research into the itinerary. Options typically include 7 days, 8 days or 15 days. There are also Western and Southern itineraries. The 15-day itinerary is typically more comprehensive. Which loop you do will likely determine what you will see. For example, the Waved Albatross and Red-footed Boobies can only be seen in the Southern islands. You will have a greater chance of seeing whales, dolphins, and giant tortoises in the Western islands. Also, not all animals can be seen all year round. Do your research into when and where you go in the Galapagos to ensure you have the greatest chance to see what you want.

Be prepeared to pay these fees in cash (US Dollars) when you arrive: INGALA Migration Control Card: $20 USD (Per Person, payable at Quito or Guayaquil Airport) National Park Entrance Fee: $100 USD (Per Person, must be paid in cash, $20 bills or less) Tipping Guide & Crew: Recommended $8 - $15 USD per day for each (Guide and Crew). Beverages on the boat can add up: Beers are about $5 USD each, and cocktails are $7 to $10 USD each. Note, these prices were all in 2017.

Final Reflection: Mind Blown, Toes Nipped, and The Power of the Last-Minute Trip

Looking back at this three-part journey — the cruise, the Colombian road trip, and the Galápagos — it’s clear the trip was a masterclass in controlled chaos. It’s funny how the least planned parts are always the most memorable. We went from the structured itinerary of a cruise ship to literally jumping off in Cartagena for an unplanned road trip, and then booking the Galápagos cruise of a lifetime just days before it sailed. That kind of chaos and immediate reward is what I love about travel.

The contrast between the parts was unbelievable. The Western Caribbean cruise was beautiful but predictable — a great way to celebrate Nicola's birthday and see the Panama Canal. Colombia was raw and hilarious, especially proving to Nicola that we’d already been to Santa Marta, and that experience at the Volcán del Totumo was certainly a unique memory.

But the Galápagos? That was the entire point, the undisputed highlight. Hearing Nicola say, "MIND IS BLOWN!!!!!!!!" when she got off that catamaran said it all. We didn't just see the animals; we were practically living among them. Even the minor scare — getting left behind while snorkelling, which genuinely terrified me for those five minutes — just adds to the story now. And the sea lion nipping my toe was a very effective reminder that these animals are wild, no matter how much they pose for the camera.

This whole journey was a spectacular mash-up of luxury, grit, and unparalleled natural wonder. I can't wait to see what last-minute mistake we book next!