Iceland was a test of endurance and adventure! We navigated the Ring Road in our campervan, chased puffins, climbed volcanic craters, and finally achieved the ultimate high point: snorkelling between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates in the crystal-clear waters of the Silfra Fissure.
Our journey to Iceland, spanning from May 19th to June 3rd, 2019, was the highly anticipated launch of our third year of world travels. We did a lot of research into this leg of our voyage. Facing Iceland’s legendary high prices, we made a crucial early decision: to commit to eleven days of nomadic life in a campervan. This was not a compromise, but a deliberate choice for adventure, ensuring the van provided practical necessities—including a comfortable bed for a six-foot-six traveller—along with essential heating, Wi-Fi, and GPS.
We condensed our lives into a single large backpack each, carefully balancing arctic gear with lighter items for future desert heat. This exhaustive preparation set the stage for an adventure that would test our gear and our resolve, beginning the moment we touched down in Keflavik, ready for the unscripted Ring Road.
Chapter 1: The South Coast's Raw Initiation - Glaciers and Diamond Jewels
The first night was a brief, conventional pause at the 22 Hill Hotel in Reykjavik. On May 20th, we picked up our compact mobile home, marking the start of our eleven-day self-guided immersion. The South Coast immediately provided a powerful initiation. We felt the sheer, cold force of the meltwater at the iconic Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls. The landscape soon turned primeval at the black sand beaches, where vast stretches of volcanic minerals contrasted sharply with the white foam of the Atlantic.
The heart of our journey led us into the glacial region. We spent hours watching the serene drama unfold at the glacier lagoon near Jökulsárlón, where immense icebergs calved and drifted toward the sea. The experience was made all the more special at Diamond Beach, where chunks of polished glacier ice glistened against the jet-black sand like scattered, beautiful jewels—a truly unique spectacle of nature. Our ambition at Skaftafell National Park saw us hiking before the visitor centre was open, following trails that led us to powerful, vibrating waterfalls and allowed us to reach out and touch the centuries-old, ancient surface of a glacier. This segment was a masterclass in resilience and elemental power.
Chapter 2: Circling the Solitude - Fjords, Puffins, and Volcanic Thunder
The road north brought us into the desolate and beautiful East Fjords, where the solitude was immense. The drive traced the relentless curve of the coastline between steep mountains and the tranquil sea. In a small town called Eskifjardur, we discovered a local hot pool and took an impromptu break, luxuriating in the heat of the water against the cold air before camping nearby. The quietude of the fjord lulled us to sleep.
Our northern trajectory was a dedicated pursuit of wildlife and geological extremes. After passing a town with a charming, colourful rainbow-painted sidewalk, we reached the Puffin Coast. We stayed overnight, giving us the perfect timing to observe the puffins in the evening. We watched the comical birds up close, darting in and out of their burrows on the wind-carved cliffs.
Next, we targeted the North's raw power. At Dettifoss, Europe’s most powerful waterfall, we took the unofficial route—a thirty-kilometre stretch of rough gravel road on the east side—to gain the most visceral view, standing close to the spray and the thunder. The Krafla area felt like walking through a live geology textbook. We hiked over black lava fields from the 1980s that still looked warm, passing by mud pots that bubbled and steamed intensely.
The day concluded with a restorative soak at the Mývatn Nature Baths. Sliding into the mineral-blue water with the air temperature near freezing was the ultimate, steamy lullaby. The next morning, we climbed the cinder slope of Hverfjall for a windy lap of the vast crater rim before heading to Húsavík, the whale capital, where we spent hours following magnificent humpbacks as they surfaced and then silently slipped away into the deep.
Chapter 3: The Western Challenges and the Campervan's Farewell
The final stretches of the Ring Road offered a mix of quiet beauty and unexpected challenges. Near Hvammstangi, we set out to find seals, finding only a few basking far out on the rocks at Illugastaðir. With only two camper nights left, we made the conscious decision to skip the remote Westfjords and explore the beautiful Snæfellsnes Peninsula instead. This detour included a challenging drive up a steep, narrow gravel road toward the Snæfellsjökull glacier, where we saw search and rescue teams training against the backdrop of hikers and skiers. We explored unique craters and lava formations before reaching the incredible Hraunfossar, a waterfall where glacial water flows uniquely straight from beneath a wide lava field, making it one of the most memorable sights of the trip.
Our nomadic life ended with one last, necessary dose of resourcefulness: a flat tire on the final morning. The spare was rusted onto the bottom of the van, a bolt snapped, and after forty-five gritty minutes of labour, the new tire was on. The unexpected adventure continued when we reached the repair shop, and later, when returning the van, the attendant admired the 'creative' repair: a pair of socks used to secure a broken bracket back into place, which had worked perfectly.
Chapter 4: The Reykjavik Reset and the Golden Circle Adventure
The transition on May 31st was abrupt. We dropped off the campervan and picked up a tiny Hyundai i10, symbolizing the immediate shift from rugged survival to urban convenience. We settled into our modern Airbnb at Hrisateigur 19. Our host, Emma, who was initially 'intense' with rules, eventually softened, even joining us for dinner on the final night—Iceland is always full of surprises. We enjoyed exploring Reykjavik, catching a rare air show at the city airport and joining a complimentary CityWalk Reykjavik tour, which was a low-key, hilarious introduction to the city's history and humour.
For our final full day, June 2nd, we toured the iconic Golden Circle. We shared the journey with a new friend, a hitchhiker from the UK named Beth, confirming the kindness of strangers. Together, we witnessed the spectacular eruption of the Strokkur Geysir and stood in awe of Gullfoss, a spectacular double cascade waterfall roaring into a deep canyon below. We appreciated the local bravado of the nearby sign that claimed the waterfall's wildness and fury surpassed even the Niagara Falls.
The Tectonic Climax: Snorkelling Between Continents
The high point of the entire sixteen-day expedition was saved for the end of the Golden Circle tour: the snorkel in the Silfra Fissure. We drove to Thingvellir National Park to meet Troll Expeditions for the adventure of a lifetime. The fissure is the visible crack where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates slowly drift apart. The water, glacial melt filtered through volcanic rock for decades, was perfectly clear, boasting visibility over a hundred meters.
Encased in dry suits to brave the near-freezing temperature, we floated on the surface for forty minutes. The initial shock of the cold was quickly forgotten as we were suspended in the clearest water on Earth, our bodies warm and our lips numb. Despite a momentary nervousness about the cold, the experience of literally floating between continents was a profound, beautiful, and utterly unforgettable finale, leaving us with hearts full and a deep sense of accomplishment.
Lessons Learned
Nicola thought I should wrap up the things we learned about campervanning in Iceland. I decided to expand that a little to include all of our lessons learned. This may seem like a jumble of things, but good to know. NOTE: We did this trip in 2019, so I would expect the costs to be quite different today.
Campervan Lessons:
Of course, you need to remember all of the costs when you plan a campervan holiday. I wanted a longer campervan because I am 6' 6", but Nicola wanted the smaller one because it was cheaper. The longer campervan meant a longer bed for me and more space overall. In the end, I booked the longer one, but I had to agree to pay the difference between the two myself.
In all, we travelled about 2500 km over 11 days. That was the full ring road plus a lot of in and out of fjords. We filled up three and a bit times. The cost of diesel was pretty consistently 231 ISK per litre all the way around. We spent just over $500 CAD, I figure in fuel. When we got the van, there were multiple fobs on the key ring. These will get you a discount on fuel. If it is pay at the pump, then tap the fob first to start. If it is pay inside, then pump your fuel first, then go inside where they will have you tap the fob for the discount. The discounts are about 3% in general.
I thought we were paying for insurance at the time of booking. However, I learned that that was only third-party liability, which is the law in Iceland. It will only cover the damage you cause to other vehicles. Our credit card does not provide insurance on campervans. I checked before we left. I chose to buy their insurance in case of stone chips or other things. It is important to know that no insurance means you won’t pay for the damage you cause if you have an accident. Be prepared and make your own decisions.
Nicola’s hints are a bit more organizational. The shelf under the fridge had no doors on it. Anything on these shelves would slide out while we were driving. Perhaps consider bringing some light bungee cords or something else that can wrap around the whole shelf. Otherwise, your stuff will need to be stored somewhere else.
Campgrounds are not cheap. For two, we paid an average of about $35 CAD per night. There is a camping card you can get for 150 euros. However, there are only 40 campsites to pick from. It might be hard to limit yourself to these. We perhaps paid more, but we stopped where we wanted and when we wanted. You decide what will work for you. The card might work better for a family, depending on how long you will be travelling. Search online for camp sites and the services they offer.
Using a camp stove is a pain in the butt, so finding a campsite with a real stove is a big win. Hot showers included in the price are always nice. You can only get the campervan near the airport, so it may be better to pick it up when you arrive. Or stay one night in Keflavík and pick it up the next day. The airport shuttle can be expensive.
Is Iceland expensive?
There is no doubt that it is expensive. However, we cooked our own food most days. We brought a bunch of food with us from Canada. However, when we went to the grocery store, some things were not too expensive. Given that we pay a bit more where we live, we did not find it too bad, really. Meat is more expensive, but lamb and fish are more economical. Some veggies are not too expensive, and some are terribly pricey. Tomatoes, cucumbers, etc, we found reasonable.
Eating out is fairly expensive. We got a coupon book when we arrived that had several two-for-ones. We ate a meal at IKEA one day, which is always pretty cheap. If you have a Costco card, there is one in Reykjavík. The gas stations often have a Grill 66 or a Quiznos. Nic got a two-for-one coupon for each of these. When booking an excursion online, see if you can find a promo code. I often find one that saves between 10% and 20%.
Do I need Icelandic Kronas?
We took out some at the atm when we arrived. Iceland is all about the credit cards, and it is super easy to tap everywhere. We could have used no cash. Some of the campgrounds had an honour box if you arrived late or left early. Otherwise, the attendant came around with a machine to charge your card.
The only thing we used cash for was the free walking tour. Interestingly, we could have tipped him by card. He would send you a link to pay him on your phone. Needless to say, Iceland would be easy to do without cash. It would be very challenging to do without a credit card. In the end, I converted most of our cash to Norwegian kroner.
What is the tipping convention?
Don’t tip. They won’t refuse it, but it just isn’t done. Their wages cover it. I know this would be hard for Americans who always overtip (my opinion only). But Icelanders don’t tip... so you shouldn’t either. The machine won’t give you the option.
Souvenirs
We learned this too late. But there is a flea market in Reykjavik that is open from about 11 am to 5 pm on weekends only (I think). You can get much better deals in there. The Icewear factory store had some good prices, and Nic had a 15% off coupon. We couldn’t get much because we are just at the beginning of our year-long trip. Wool products are a popular item.
Duty Free Alcohol
We bought a bottle of duty-free Baileys in Toronto. Alcohol is pretty expensive in Iceland. When we arrived, we were able to go into the duty-free area at the Reykjavík airport. We bought some beer. There is beer in the grocery stores that is 2.25% alcohol. It is about a dollar for a tall can. To get full-strength beer, you have to go to a liquor store. Beer was illegal until 1989. Now there are lots of local brews that are nice. Explore them.
Airport Shuttles
It was about 75 CAD for two of us one way. It might be cheaper to rent a car. We got a car for three days for $72 CAD plus $55 for gas. That included us driving the Golden Circle. The airport is almost an hour from Reykjavík, so it is understandable why it is expensive. You decide.
Driving in Iceland
Driving in Iceland is pretty easy. They drive on the right side of the road (as opposed to the left or wrong side). The main highways are paved and well-maintained. Getting to many of the places you want to go may require driving on gravel. For us, it wasn’t too bad because we have a lot of experience with gravel roads. For some, it may be stressful. It may also lead to damage like stone chips on the windshield. Use a map to figure out what kind of roads you will be driving on. There are lots of one-lane bridges. Who goes depends on who arrived first. It should not be too hard to figure out. Iceland also has lots of roundabouts. If you have experience with them, it should be okay. We relied on our cell phones for our routes. If you don’t have one, make sure you have a good map. There may be more than one way to get where you are going.
Cell Phones and Wifi
Our campervan included wifi, which was very cool. Many campgrounds had wifi, too. Wifi is abundant and accessible in Iceland. We also got a SIM card for our phone. Data is very cheap compared to Canada. I ordered a UK SIM card, but when we arrived, we learned that the unlimited data would start to cost us because we had not activated it in the UK. I might do something different next time. We are using GiffGaff. If you are going for a short trip (ie, up to two weeks), you could use GiffGaff, and it is very cheap. Look into it. (UPDATE: I am sure with the evolution of eSims, this would be very different today.)
Reflection: The Enduring Lesson of Contrast
Our complete journey concluded on June 3rd with an early morning drive back to Keflavik for our onward flight. Iceland had delivered on its promise of dramatic contrasts. The eleven days in the campervan honed our resilience, granted us immense solitude, and provided an intimate view of the island’s raw, elemental beauty. The final days in Reykjavik were a necessary, exhilarating pivot, offering urban comfort and the ultimate high-impact adventure at Silfra. Iceland reminded us that the best adventures are often those that unfold unexpectedly, demanding flexibility and rewarding travellers with sights and experiences that defy imagination.
